Hi everyone i’m scott newnam ceo of audio advice we’ve designed and installed over a thousand theaters and this video is part of our home theater design series that covers virtually everything about designing a home theater in this video we’re going to be talking about laying out the physical space for your home theater we’ll discuss all the different aspects of laying out your room and how to handle the elements of your room that you can control and also those that you cannot control if you want more information on anything covered in this video be sure to click the link in the description.

That will take you to our full article on home theater layout on our site there you can also explore all of our articles and videos on virtually everything home theater related or even design your own home theater in our interactive home theater design tool now let’s get started we’re going to start by talking about general room dimensions and acoustics ask any recording engineer and they will tell you that the physical room dimensions have a huge impact on the sound you’ll be able to get in a room if you’re lucky enough to be designing your home theater from scratch there are some ratios you can use to get your room to a great basic shape the most famous is the golden ratio of 1 to 1.6 to 2.6 as an example a room with a 10-foot high ceiling would ideally be 16 feet wide and 26 feet long we won’t get too deep into this here but.

The dimensions are so important because the size and shape of every room causes some frequencies to be amplified and some to be almost completely cancelled out because of how sound waves bounce off the walls and interact in your room this causes some areas of the room to have overly boomy bass while other areas have severely lacked bass no room is perfect but getting close to the golden ratio and avoiding dimensions that are multiples of each other will ensure your room has fairly consistent bass in the main seating area also try to stay away from dimensions that are close to each.

Other the worst possible room would be a cube say 10 feet by 10 feet by 10 feet even the best sound system cannot overcome a really bad room if you’re building your room from scratch and are planning on multiple rows of seating remember to count for riser height when deciding ceiling height if you’re unsure about your dimensions and have the ability to adjust give us a call or chat with us at audioadvice.com and we’ll be glad to help on the audio advice website we have a fully interactive design tool where you can interactively adjust your room dimensions and different speaker setups and get the optimal placement and design while there are ideal positions for speakers oftentimes rooms don’t allow for placing speakers in the perfect positions at audio advice we carry plenty.

Of problem solver speakers that will ensure you still get great sound even in a less than ideal room take a look at our article and video on speaker layouts to get an idea of where they might need to be located before you start adding other elements if you have the luxury of designing your room from scratch this process is usually much more straightforward the big decision is deciding what speaker layout you want this could be a basic 5.1 setup or a full-blown 7.2.4 setup or even beyond this for more information on what these numbers mean check out our article and video on surround sound options or go to our interactive tool and play around with all.

The different options when you’re designing your home theater layout in general the screen wall will typically be the short wall obviously your seating layout will affect this especially in family rooms but at the very least try to get the screen centered on the seating area with your speakers an equal distance off to each side from the video display if you’re using a front projection system you also have the option of putting the front speakers behind the screen you will find that viewing a two hour movie or three hour game will be a lot more comfortable if the screen is at about eye level a point of reference is to target the bottom of your screen 30 to 36 inches off the floor when flat panel tvs came on the scene many people started mounting the tv above the fireplace mantel this setup isn’t ideal for the muscles in your neck.

So either mount it as low as you can or you can use manual or power tv mounting brackets that will move the tv down for viewing for tips on choosing the right screen size check out our article and video in the link that explains all of the factors to consider our interactive design tool also will show you what the various optimal screen sizes are for your specific room setup let’s move on to paint and lighting when designing your room you want to try to prevent light from windows from spilling onto your screen if you have windows consider using some sort of blackout curtain or shade heavy curtains often provide an acoustic benefit too if you think about the last time you were in a commercial theater you probably noticed there were no windows.

And the walls and ceiling were painted dark this is especially important for home theater rooms with a front projection screen most screens reflect light off at a pretty wide angle and you don’t want that light reflecting back off the walls dark gray is an ideal color but whatever you choose make sure you use a matte or flat paint finish when it comes to lighting you will want to consider task lighting accent lighting and safety lighting adding remote control to the lighting also adds a super cool wow factor to your home theater if you watch some of our installation videos.

Of theaters we have built you’ll see how we integrate different types of lighting again be sure to look in the description for our article that goes much more in depth on the do’s and don’ts of home theater lighting if you’re going for a real home theater experience with a large screen and multiple rows of seating you’ll need to think about sight lines sight lines are the angle and direction the screen is viewed from each seating position when you have more than one row of seating a riser is needed so the back row can see over the front row without being blocked in general you want at least an 8 inch high riser if you have the ceiling height you should go even higher a 12 or 16 inch platform is even better for the rear rows the depth of the riser should be a minimum of six feet to allow for people.

To pass in front of the footrest on a recline theater chair with a couch or other fixed type of seating you can sometimes get by with a five foot deep riser if you’re thinking about putting a multi-row home theater system into a living room or spare bedroom you can use prefabricated risers so you don’t have to do any permanent construction or if you have some carpentry skills you can make them yourself if you want that third row of seating in your theater but don’t quite have the ceiling height for it a cool option is building a bar behind the second row of seats the bar stools will get people.

In the third row up high enough to avoid any sight line issues while still being on the same riser as the second row plus you’ll have a great spot for the big spread you’ll put out for your watch parties hopefully this overview has given you some insight on some of the smaller details on home theater room layout that are sometimes overlooked when planning a home theater room this video is part of the audio advice home theater design series of videos that cover all aspects of designing a home theater.

In our description you will find links to all of the articles and videos as well as our really cool interactive home theater design tool if you have any questions or decide to like some help planning your theater or maybe you’d rather just have someone build it for you give us a call or chat with our team at audioadvice.com or if you’re near Raleigh or charlotte swing into our stores and we’d love to help you out thank you for watching if you enjoyed this video please give it a like and be sure to subscribe to our channel so you never miss the latest home audio and home theater content we’ll see you next time.

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Is your pool water green. Well, the good news is you don’t have to drain your pool and start over to get rid of it. Here’s a quick guide on how to kill pool algae fast and keep it from coming back. Let’s dive in. Real quick, before we continue, if you want more help taking care of your pool, be sure to grab our free pool care cheat sheet at SwimUniversity.com/Cheat Sheet. It’s totally free and will help keep your pool clean and clear all season long. First, why do I have a green swimming pool? Well, the culprit for green water is pool algae. If it’s light green, the algae is likely just starting to take hold, but a deeper green means you have a bigger algae bloom problem.

Green algae happens when your chlorine levels are too low. When your chlorine levels are low, your chlorine can’t sanitize the water, and algae can start to develop.

Algae can also grow if your pool filter hasn’t been running properly and the water hasn’t been passing through your filtration system. If you’ve added chlorine and you’re running your filter and the algae just won’t go away, here’s how to fix green pool water fast. Make sure you follow every step in order to make sure you’re as efficient as possible.

One, brush the pool walls and floor. Attach a pool brush to a telescopic pole and scrub the pool walls, floor, steps, and any surface the algae might be clinging to.

The goal is to get the algae floating in suspension in your pool water, giving the chlorine a better chance to kill it. If you have a concrete pool, it’s best to use an algae brush. Algae is tough and will stubbornly cling to the pool surfaces, especially porous concrete so a heavy duty brush works better than soft nylon bristles in this case.

Two, test your alkalinity and pH. Using test strips or a liquid test kit, test the pH and alkalinity levels.

Your pH should be between 7.4 and 7.6.

It’s okay if it’s a bit lower since you’ll be adding shock later that actually raises the pH. Your total alkalinity should be between 100 and 150 parts per million. Again, it’s okay if this is a bit lower. If your pH and alkalinity are too high, now’s the time to adjust them. Start with lowering your alkalinity first, which should bring your pH down in range.

Then, retest your water. And if needed, adjust your pH afterward. Adjusting your pH and alkalinity at this stage will ensure the shock treatment will be as effective as possible.

Also, testing your water can happen before brushing. It won’t affect the algae killing process.

And if you need more help balancing your pH and alkalinity, be sure to check out our other video on pool water chemistry. Three, shock your pool with chlorine to kill algae. This is the most important step in clearing up a green pool because shock is what kills the algae. Pool shock contains a high level of chlorine that will kill algae and sanitize your pool water. For the best results, use a calcium hypochlorite shock AKA cal-hypo shock that contains at least 70% available chlorine.

If you usually use a non-chlorine shock, you must use a chlorine shock to kill algae. Non-chlorine shock just won’t work to get rid of algae spores. And keep in mind, it’s best to shock at night. Otherwise, the sun can burn off the shock and it will be less effective.

So how much shock do you need to kill the algae in your pool?

It depends on the color of the algae. A normal shock treatment is one pound of shock per 10,000 gallons of pool water. But that’s if your pool isn’t green. If your pool is a light green, you’ll need to add double the shock to your pool water. If your pool is dark green, you’ll need to add triple the amount.

And if your pool is black, you’ll need to quadruple shock your pool. For example, if you have a 20,000-gallon pool or about 7,500 liters and your water was dark green, you’ll need six bags of shock. That’s a triple dose. If you need more help about how to add shock to your pool water, be sure to check out our other video or run your pool filter for eight hours and shock again if needed.

As you let the shock work, run your filter system for at least eight hours overnight.

But if you can run the filter 24 hours a day until your pool is clear, this will help clear your water faster. If the pool is still green or teal in the morning, hit it again with the same amount of shock the following night. And by the next morning, it should be cloudy blue. In this case, cloudy water is actually a good thing. If your pool is cloudy blue, that means you’ve successfully killed all the algae and it’s floating in the water.

Keep your filter system running for at least 24 hours to get the dead algae out of the water and to ensure the shock has fully dissipated. If you winna speed up the process, you can use a pool clarifier to help clear the water more quickly. Or if you want a more powerful treatment to clear up the cloudy water, use a pool flocculant. Keep in mind that you’ll need to vacuum your pool after using this.

And it only works if you have a filter with a waste setting.

Five, clean your filter. Make sure you backwash your filter or change the cartridge after all the algae is gone. All that dead algae is caught in your filter medium so now it’s time to clean it. If you need more help on when and how to backwash your sand or DE filter, be sure to check out our other videos. Number six, test your water again and adjust your pool chemicals.

When your pool isn’t green anymore or you have cloudy blue or clear water, test your water again. This time, test for pH, alkalinity, calcium hardness, and your chlorine levels. And add chemicals as needed to balance things out. Once you made sure all your levels are where they need to be, you’re ready to enjoy your pool again.

So now that your pool is clear, how do you keep pool algae from coming back?

Well, the best way to keep algae away is keeping your chlorine levels in the right range. This means testing your water at least once a week or more often if you’re noticing fluctuations. If you noticed your levels are a bit on the low side, don’t wait for things to get worse. Add chlorine immediately. And if you have a salt water pool, make sure your salt water generator is keeping your chlorine levels consistent.

If you wanna take more preventative measures, you can also add algaecide during your regular pool maintenance.

But your best bet is to just stay on top of your chlorine levels. If you need more help with pool maintenance, grab our free pool care cheat sheet at SwimUniversity.com/CheatSheet. And if you found this video helpful, leave a comment, hit the like button, and subscribe for more pool maintenance tutorials throughout the season.

That’s it. Thanks again and happy swimming.

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In this video, we’re going to use 3D animation to show the inside of a combination lock. I’m going to go over exactly why putting in a three-digit combination allows us to open the lock. Let’s check it out. During most of my teen years, I used a combination lock at school to open up my locker. Before making this video, I really didn’t understand how it worked.

So, I did some research, looked at a few patents, and then opened one up to see what’s on the inside.

Let me show you what I learned. (bright music) Here’s the case that holds all of our parts. This metal curved bar is called the shackle. It won’t come out until the right combination is put in.

Then, it pops right open. This piece is called the lever. It slides right onto the bar here. The lever can rotate counterclockwise. This piece of metal wants to flex outward.

Once it’s bent inside of here, the tension makes the latch want to spring back to its original position. Normally, the latch would just keep going, but the rotation will be stopped by this tiny bump. The lever also has a tiny latch here that is spring loaded from the inside. The shackle comes down, pushes the latch in, and then the latch fits right into the groove, and we are locked. When the shackle is pulled out, the latch is forced to rotate to allow the shackle to come all the way out.

Then, the lever springs back into place. Let’s watch that again. The shackle can’t come all the way out because of the shackle collar. It guides the shackle as it slides along here. But it stops us once we hit the very top.

Okay, the reason that the locking mechanism works is that, if the latch can’t rotate, then the shackle won’t come out. This is where the three cams come into play. Let me show you. The back place has a bar sticking out.

It holds the three cams, washers in between, and a spring at the end.

The spring ensures that the three cams and the washers are all pressed together. Cams two and three can spin freely. But cam number one is actually attached to the dial. So, when the dial spins, this cam spins too. This is what it looks like al put together.

Each cam has an indentation in them. The lock will open when all three of them are lined up. You can see how the lever can now rotate, which allows the shackle to open. When these three indentations are not lined up, the lever can’t rotate, which means the shackle can’t come out. So how do we line up the cams by only turning this dial?

Let’s look a little closer.

Each cam has at least one of these teeth sticking off of it. You can see them better from this point of view. If we turn came one far enough, the tooth on cam one will contact the tooth on cam two. And then if we keep turning, all three cams move together.

In fact, this is the first step to opening up the lock. Let’s walk through this process on the inside. This time we’re looking at it from the front, so all three cams will need to line up here.

We turn the dial clockwise three times to clear it. All three cam teeth are in contact with each other and move as one.

Now let’s keep turning the dial until we hit the first number in the combination, which in this case is 21. Notice how cam three is now lined up right where it should be. Now let’s work on the second number in the combination. This time we turn counterclockwise one full rotation. Watch as the teeth from cam one comes in contact with came two on the other side.

Notice how this doesn’t touch cam three, which is still right where it should be.

Now we keep spinning the dial until we hit the second number, which is 34. Now cam two and cam three are lined up. For the last number in the combination, just rotate the dial clockwise until it lines up with the third number. And there we go.

All three cams are lined up, the lever rotates, allowing the shackle to come out. As the shackle is pushed back in, it comes down with a bit of a jolt, which is usually enough to nudge the cams out of alignment. This means the lock won’t open a second time for free; you’ll need to use the correct combination once again.

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Thanks to Sennheiser for sponsoring our NAB 2017 coverage, learn more about the MKE 2 elements GoPro microphone and their other audio for video products at the link in the video description. NAB 2017 is well underway so let’s check out our top five camera accessories from around the show floor. Starting us off at Sennheiser MKE 2 Elements, this is a new microphone Sennheiser has made in partnership with GoPro. The microphone uses Sennheiser MKE 2 capsule and uses a rubber base to prevent vibrations from affecting sound in all the various mounting situations you may face. The mic is omnidirectional and is designed to withstand extreme cold and the wettest environments you could throw at the hero4.

The mic itself is an ipx7 rating and was recently taken first bin in various wet environments by Linus in his full review here. Sennheiser is also working on a version of this mic for the Hero 5 that will be coming out soon.

Our second accessory in this roundup is from Spider Holsters newest addition in their lineup of products the Spider Light. Now some of you may know that I’ve been using Spider Holsters Black Widow to carry my Tx 2 for a while now. The Spider Light attempts to improve on the Black Widow’s design; it sports an all-metal body with a smaller footprint than its predecessor as well as a new clip system that makes it easier to put on and remove from your belt.

Unlike the Black Widow where in order to take it off you have to remove your belt entirely.

Spider also includes a new and improved plate for your camera that doubles as an ARCA Swiss plate for tripods that use that standard with the added bonus that this plate can also have a different tripod plate added to the bottom thanks to its quarter-twenty thread. Spider has also added an optional accessory that allows use of the Spider light on a backpack strap for those who travel with backpacks often. A nice addition since I constantly find myself carrying a backpack when traveling. Next up is Maroto’s new nitro tech fluid head.

Manirroto has designed this head with a nitrogen piston in the middle which may sound a little weird, but it allows for a continuous counterbalance without the need to reset the head to neutral tilt. Unlike on their previous video heads the nitro tech has a payload of 17.6 pounds to accommodate mid-sized production cameras, and both the pan and tilt friction adjustments have been improved to be more grippy than previous heads in their lineup. Moving on we have the Free cast Universal, a wireless transmitter and receiver system. the Free cast Universal works with any camera that has an HDMI out allowing you to stream from your camera to any iOS device or monitor that can take an HDMI in.

When transmitting the Free cast Universal has a range of 500 meters and can be powered via their rechargeable batteries or the USB input on each receiver and transmitter. Audios wise you can use audio going directly into your camera or for those who want to use an external microphone the free catch Universal Translator sports a 3.5 millimeter audio input allowing a wide variety of mic solutions currently on the market. Along with monitoring your camera from multiple devices the Free cast can stream live directly to different social media platforms; currently free cast only offers support for YouTube or Facebook, but the company says that they’ll be adding twitch and Instagram Live support among others when they do the full release of the Free cast Universal later this year.

Lastly, we have Syrps new genie 2.

Building on their existing motion control systems for time-lapse and video production, the Genie 2 adds a new pen and tilt head that supports a heavier payload of 5 kilograms and is also much quieter than its predecessor. The Genie 2 is also available in a kit with their new linear drive module which uses a rope system for controlled horizontal movement on nearly any slider on the market. Syrup has also opted for type C charging on the Genie 2, these ports also double as a way to power cameras like Sony’s a7s2 that have less than optimal battery life for time-lapse.

The Genie 2 can be controlled with Syrup’s existing app for the rest of their products or with the hardware buttons on the device for less complicated movement. With other motion control systems on the market getting more complicated, Syrup is striving to keep usability as streamlined as possible allowing creatives to focus on the other challenges of their work instead of worrying about gear and approach that I can appreciate.

So, thank you guys for watching, let me know what your favorite accessory in this roundup was in the comments down below and thanks again to Sennheiser for sponsoring our coverage of NAB 2017. Check out the MKE 2 elements GoPro mic and the rest of their audio lineup which you can learn more about at the link in the video description.

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What’s up guys. It’s Chris Majestic here with Majestics and today we’re going to reviewing the Arlo Pro. so as you know traditional security camera systems require you to run wires throughout your house to wire up the cameras and even the wireless outdoor ones still require you to run power to your house which means you have to drill holes into your house to run wires inside well this is the are Arlo Pro and it’s a 100-percent wireless camera solution so each camera is battery-operated and weather-resistant so you can pretty much put these cameras wherever you want. They can easily mount to a wall or ceiling using the magnetic mount that they have and that mounts going to allow you to position it in pretty much any angle you want now these cameras are 100-percent wireless but they do come with the base station and the base station has to be wired to your router and each camera comes with a rechargeable 2400mah hour removable battery and you can charge the battery while it’s in the camera if you want using the included micro USB charger.

You just plug that into the back of the camera and it’s going to charge it.

You can also buy additional batteries for fifty bucks, and you can buy standalone battery charger that allow you to charge up to two batteries for about 50 bucks as well. And they claim that you can get four to six months of use out of these batteries now that’s going to be affected by how often you have motion on that camera Each camera also comes with a built-in microphone and speaker which means that you can actually talk to the person on the other end of the camera and you can hear them so that’s really nice you can get two-way audio going. So these cameras are HD they do 720p they have built-in motion detection, night vision, and a 130 degree field of view so you can get a lot in the view of this camera. alright so onto the base station. The base station has two USB ports and you can actually use those ports to connect an external hard drive and you can actually store your recordings directly on a hard drive instead of relying 100% on the cloud.

It has an ethernet port which are going to use to connect that to your router. The base station also has a 100db siren built into it which gets really really loud and really really enjoying. And that siren i can actually be triggered manually using the app or you can have it go off if there’s motion on one of the cameras or something like that. Setting these cameras up its really easy all you’re going to do is hit the sync button on top of the hub then you’re going to hit the sync button on the camera and within a few seconds it’s going to pair with the hub and the Arlo pro and the Arlo are backward compatible this means that the Arlo Pro Cameras will work with the original Arlo Hub and the original Arlo cameras will work with the Arlo Pro Hub. The Arlo app is also really nice so the cameras are triggered by what are called “Modes” and you’ll see four modes in there by default when you first open up the app and you can add more if you want but the modes are going to tell the cameras what to do so if you put in “Armed Mode” that means that the cameras are going to be ready when they sense motion to start recording and push that recording out to the cloud and you can add a lot of different settings that each one of these modes to tell the cameras how you want them to react whether you wanted to be triggered by audio which is really cool so you don’t have to rely 100% on motion if it gets sound it will actually push the video as well.

They also have a mode here for geofencing which is really nice, and it looks like it’s in beta right now but that’s going to do is allow your cameras to be armed whenever your phone leaves a certain designated area. So like if you leave your house is going to turn into Armed Mode or can turn it off when you get back or something like that so that’s really nice as well. Under the devices section of your app this is where you’ll see all your cameras and you can actually tap on it to view a live video feed it does take a few seconds for the video to come up and you can only view one of the time but it does have that option for you to do you live video.

You can tap the Settings button that’s on each camera that’s going to allow you to change the device settings. You can look at the battery life, the signal strength, audio/video settings, and sensitivity settings as well.

But the very first thing that I recommend for you to do is to actually adjust the video quality of the cameras to higher quality now this is going to affect your battery life but this is going to make your videos true 720p and the library section of the app is where you can actually view your recordings and you can choose to delete them or share them or download them if you want and the Arlo does come with 7 free days of cloud recording so you can get up to 7 days here for free and they do have different packages you can pay $100 a year for 30 days of recording or you can pay $150 a year for 60 days of recording.

And they also have the option for 24/7 recording if you want obviously this is going to be a little bit more expensive but it will be a good option if you’re really paranoid or you just needed to be recording all the time and they do give you discounts if you have more than one plan and they have a lot of different plan options i will post the link in the description to their website for you to check out their plans another thing i really like about these cameras is that they natively work directly with SmartThings and IFTTT so you can do things like link the modes so if you’re SmartThings mode changes it will change the mode on the camera so it will Arm the cameras or you can have recordings be triggered by some other sensor on Smart Thing so that’s really nice.

And IFTTT is just going to open up the door for a whole lot of different automation if you want. Now this is the Arlo Pro. They do still have the original Arlo and there are a few differences between the two.

The main thing is that these are faster and they better motion sensitivity so one major problem that the original Arlo cameras had was that it would start the recording a little bit too late well with the Arlo Pro they’ve definitely fixed that issue. Within I’d say a split second in most of my videos it started recording as soon as it saw me. It did work really well for inanimate objects when I opened up my garage door really didn’t pick that up but it did pick me up as soon as I came into the frame so i don’t know if it’s using a heat signature or what Another difference from the old Arlo is that he’s actually come with rechargeable batteries.

So the old Arlo came with a CR123 battery the other difference is that the base station actually comes with that 100db siren that didn’t exist on the whole base station. So there’s a lot to love about this Arlo security camera system but there are a few things I don’t like.

The very first thing is kind of obvious and that’s that these are battery-operated that means you’re going to have to replace the battery every few months if you get a lot of motion and you’re doing 720p recording that can definitely dwindle that 4-6 months down a little bit so that could definitely stuck if you’ve got like 4 or 5 cameras and you find yourself out there every 3-4 months or so replacing the batteries constantly swapping them out that can definitely be a pain.

Now as I said, you can buy the charging station and additional batteries but if you want to do that, you’re pretty much looking at an additional $100. That brings me to my next thing which is the price now these things are not cheap now you definitely paying for convenience here so you’ve got the cheapest option for the Arlo Pro, which is about $250 for a 1-Camera system all the way up to the 4-Camera system which is what i have here and this cost $650 so once you start adding things like the charging station extra batteries it can definitely get really pricey.

Another concern that I have is that these are only 720p now some people might think I’m nitpicking with that but I do wish they had a 1080p option and only reason why I say that is when you’re talking about these recordings being highly compressed and they’re 720p, when you’re trying to do something like pick up a license plate or face off in the distance that’s going to be kind of hard to do with 720p video so I definitely wish they had a 1080p option they do have the Arlo Q which is an indoor wired camera and that is 1080p but i do wish they had some outdoor cameras that were 1080p another thing to keep in mind is that you can’t record more than two minutes at a time so by default your recordings are going to be 10 seconds.

You can take that all the way up to two minutes but you’re not going to be able to go beyond that and that’s going to be whether you trigger the recording manually or if it does it automatically with motion and the last concern I have about this is that you can only do 5 cameras.

That may be plenty for some people but i would like to see like an 8 camera system but overall i really like these cameras i think they’re really good for somebody who is either not handy or not really technical since they make it really simple for you to set these things up.

You can even buy some really cool accessories for the cameras like you can buy different mounts if you want you can get some camo skins and different colored skins so you can like hide the camera a tree or something like that if you want to. Now Arlo isn’t the only 100% percent wireless camera system out there. There are a few other ones out there but i do think Netgear got it right with the Arlo cameras. Alright guys that’s going to be it for this video if you found it helpful go ahead and mash that Like button for me and i’ll see you guys in the next video.

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